Unit 12, Market Row, Brixton Market, SW9 8PR
A fried chicken shop in the middle of Brixton? Wishbone fried chicken is one hell of a stereotype! It opened to the public on Tuesday following a private launch party on Saturday.
The chalkboard menu offers 3 types of wings, 2 types of thighs, a chicken sandwich, a quarter or half chicken. For sides we have the standard slaw and fries, but also the interesting additions like “Deep Fried Mac ‘N’ Cheese” and a curiously named “Hot Mess”.
“Buffalo wings” appeared as 5 wings in a box lined with greaseproof paper and a tub of blue cheese sauce. Comparing them to my travels to New York they are definitely on the mark. Not as hot as what I’ve had in Manhattan but nicely spicy. I was also very pleased to find that they were properly crispy. Squeezing them a little made a touch of extra sauce ooze out of the skin. Fantastic! (I often find that wings served in London can be soft with sauce simply poured over as an afterthought.)
My side was the “Hot Mess”. An appropriately named ‘mess’ of US style thin fries mixed with sliced jalapeños; longs strips of pickles; and soft cheese all generously coated in hot Buffalo sauce. This was actually a lot more tasty than I expected and again delightfully spicy, although the fries weren’t crispy.
“Beers, Wines, Sprits” proudly take up the lower half of the drinks menu. While the upper half is occupied with a three-step “Wishbone Sours Menu”. Choose your spirit, whether you want to skip the traditional egg-white, and if you want ice or not.
The bar consultants on this job are Soul Shakers, (the same team behind Burger & Lobster‘s Bars). They have kept the offering appropriately simple – one cocktail, the classic sour. The backbar has some great liquors, I spotted a Hibiki 17, and a bartender influenced selection of tequilas, gins, cognacs and a good selection of bourbons (inc. George T Stagg). The team say this selection will be expanding next week.
The contents of the ‘Hot Mess’ should be put up on the blackboard as I heard “What’s a hot mess?” at least 3 times while I was standing at the bar. Maybe the single-sided bar menus could have the food menu printed on the reverse. Lots of drinks menus are hung from kitchen hooks around the bar while the food menu is only on the blackboard at the front… so it might make life easier when the venue is busy.
They are very minor suggestions. I was greeted immediately. Both service and food were excellent during my mid-afternoon visit.